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Tibetan monasteries are based on a conservative design and share a remarkable continuity of layout. Many are built in spectacular high locations above villages. Most were originally surrounded by an outer wall, built to defend the treasures of the monastery from bands of brigands, Mongolian hordes or even rival monasteries. Most monasteries have a kora, or pilgrim path, around the complex, replete with holy rocks and meditation retreats high on the hillside behind. Inside the gates there is usually a central courtyard used for special ceremonies and festivals. Surrounding buildings usually include a main assembly or prayer hall (dukhang) with side protector chapels (goenkhang) and subsidiary chapels (lhakhang), as well as monks quarters, a library and, in the case of larger monasteries, colleges (tratsang), halls of residence (kangtsang), kitchens and a printing press (barkhang).
The main prayer hall consists of rows of low seats and tables often strewn with cloaks, hats, ritual instruments, drums and huge telescopic horns. There is a small altar with seven bowls of water, butter lamps and offerings of seed mandalas. The main altar houses the main statues, often Sakyamuni (Tibetan: Sakya Thukpa), Maitreya (Jampa) or a trinity of Buddhas and perhaps the founder of the monastery or past lamas. There may be an inner room behind the main hall, whose entrance is flanked by protector gods, one blue, often Vajrapani (Chana Dorje), the other red, often Hayagriva (Tamdrin). There may well be an inner kora of prayer wheels. At the entrance to most buildings are murals of the Four Guardian Kings and perhaps a Wheel of Life or mandala mural. Side stairs lead up from here to higher floors.
Protector chapels are dark and spooky halls which hold wrathful manifestations of deities, often covered with a cloth because of their terrible appearance. Murals are often traced against a black background and walls are decorated with Tantric deities or skeletons. Pillars are decorated with festival masks, weapons and sometimes stuffed animals such as snakes and wolves.
The monastery roof usually has excellent views as well as copper symbols of the Wheel of Dharma flanked by two deer, as well as vases of immortality, victory banners and dragons. |