Qogir K2 Mountain
“Qogir”, in Tajik language, means “ tall and magnificent”. The main peak of Karakorum Shan Range, the 8611- meter Qogir Feng is also the second highest peak in the world, which is named K2 Feng abroad.
At 76.5 0E and 35.9 0N, Qogir Feng is located in the middle section of Karakorum Shan, the part of which in china is in Yecheng Autonomous County of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
Karakorum Shan, over 6000 meters above sea level, stretches long and unbroken for several thousan kilometers, running northwest-southeast. With high peaks (including Qogir Feng) clustering in the mountain range, there are four peaks of the world level over 8000 meters in height which are linded alosely together. On the east side of Qogir Feng is Broad Feng (805 meters high). Suc-cessive in order is Gasherbrum I Feng of 8080 meters, while Gasherbrum I Feng stands 8034 meters above sea level. The peaks here take about 1/3 of the 14 high peaks over 8000 meters above sea level in the world. Besides, more than twenty peaks reach over 7000 meters- Sikeyang Kanli Feng on the north side (7545 meters), Sipande Feng (7385 meters) on the west side and Huanguan Feng (Crown Peak) at 7295 meters, thus making it the second center for mountain climbing and the focus of the mountaineers’ attention. Qogir Feng is made up of six mountain ridges, among which the northwest-southeast moun-tain ridge acts as the main ridge line of Karakorum Shar Range as well es the boundary between China and Pakistan. In addtion, there are the North Ridge, the Northwest Ridge and the Southwest Ridge, the summit of which are Pyramid-shaped and full of steeply-rising snow cliffs and has the dan-gerously and full of steeply-rising snow cliffs and has the dan-gerously steep lie of the mountains. On the slope walls scatter the traces of chutes caused by snow avalanches. On the top of the peak, a snow slope goes gentally to heights from the north to the south and extends over a large area. The north side of the snow slope is on an average of over 450, looking just as if being cut by a knife and splitted by an axe. The vertical height difference be-tween the base camp site in the north to the summit reaches even more than 4700 meters, making it the highest peak over 8000 meters with the greatest ver-tical height difference in the world. In the north lies Qogir Glaciers with its complicated and changeable terrain, the tattered surface of the glacier and the criss-crossing open and hiden crevasses. The steep rock walls or cliffs in the criss-crossing open and hidden crevasses. The steep rock walls or cliffs in the valley west of the glacier are frequented by rolling rocks, ice avalanches and snow avalanches. The Yinsugaidi Glavier, which amounts to 44 kilometers, is right on both sides of Qogir Feng.
Not only has Qogir Feng characteristics of dangerous and perilous terrain but also the extremely harsh weather. The rainy season of this area is in May and lasts till September every year, when the warm and wet air current of Southwesterly monsoon is converted into rainfall. From mid-September to mid-April of the next year, the powerful and piercingly cold westerly wind brings about the bitterly cold winter, when the minimun temperature may even be as low as - 50℃and the greatest velocity may exceed 25 meters per second, making any mountaineering activities impossible. Moreover, in the months from May to September, with the increase in temperature, melting snow and rain-fall, the water level of the river valley is greatly raisesd, standing in the way of those who desire to go into the mountain. The best time to go into the mountain, therefore, should be between May and June when the rivers rose but are not in spate. The most favorable time to reach the summit, however, proves to be from July to Septermber when the temperature there rises a lot and many fine days on end are available.
The route line leading to Qogir Feng is the longest among those of China’s peaks open to the outside world. Drive from Yiecheng, the place of strategic im-portance in South Xinjiang, up Xinjiang-Tibetan Highway to Mazar, and the 25 kilometer drive along the simply-built highway brings you to Mazar Dala. Then (Yinghong Tan of 3924 meters in height, to be exact). What should be cautioned is that, to take this route, you should climb over the 4800-merter-high Agele Deban to enter the Karaqin He valley, trying not to do it in July and August when the Karaqin He is in spate and both human beings and animals would find it impassable.
In 1902, the English Mountaineering Team made the first attempt to climb Qogir Feng but it ended in failure. Down through the 50 years, man had tried many a time but achieved no success. It was until July 31, 1954 that two per-sons from the Italian Mountaineering Team, L •Lacedelli and A•Compagnoni spent about 100 days to set the record of reaching the summit along the southeast ridge in Pakistan.
In the year of 1976 and 1977 respectively, the Chinese Mountaineering Association set up mountaineering teams to scout up the route line on the north side of Qogir Feng. On August 4,1982, the Qogir Feng Mountaineering Team of Japan’s Alpine Association became the first to leave foot prints on the summit along the north ridge on the north slope. Thereafter, teams from Italy, USA. and the Yokohama Alpine Association of Japan succeeded one after another in conquering Qogir Feng from the Chinese side.