Xixabangma Feng Mountain
Among the 14 peaks over 8000 meters in the world, Xixabangma Feng of 8012 meters above sea level ranks last. It happens to be the only peak over 8000 meters lying entirely in Chinese territory. At 85.7 0E and 28.3 0 N, resting in the middle section of the Himalayas, it is located to the southeast of Kukangri Shan Range, the main ridge line of which is 10 kilometers to its north side and runs southeast-northwest. One hunderd and twenty kilometers to its southeast stands Qomolangma Feng, to its east Molamening Feng at an altitude of 7703 meters, to the northwest Gangpengqing Feng at an altitude of 7292 meters, all of which are situated in Nyalam County of Tibet.
In Tibetan language, “Xixabangma” stands for “severe climate”. The de-vout Tibetan people, however, produced many mythologies and fol songs to extol it as the auspicious and mysterous peak. It is made up of three sister peaks quite similar in height while two pinnacles with their respective height of 8008 meters and 7966 meters sit 200 meters and 400 meters to the northwest of the main peak.
A massing chiefly around Xixabangma Feng, the glaciers and perennially accumulated snow of the Kukangri Shan Range total an area of 6000 square kilometers, forming one of the centers of modern glacier sphere of action in the Himalayas.
Facing horizontally the north slope of Xixabangma Feng is Yebokanggle Glacier which is 13.5 kilometers in length while the Daqu Glacier parallels Xix-abangma Feng. To the east of its north ridge lies Geya Glacier and on the south slope the 16-kilometer-long Fuqu Glacier, the end of which comes directly down to the 4550-meter-high forests of shrubs. With its bizzarre sight and shape, the serac area, at an altitude of around 5000-5800 meters above sea level, happens to be the most fascinating of all, looking just like a lively “yard of ice crys-tal groves”. In spite of its scenic beauty, alpinists may find it rather difficult to climb with the criss-crossing network of ice cracks all over the peak and the occasional tremendous avalanches.
Lying in the north of the fold belt in the Himalayas, each rock system of Xixabangma Feng is formed by the metamorphic rocks, which is thousands of meters thick, to certain extent, mathcing the run of the mountain systems. Rows of glacier end moraines at the bottom of the valley indicate the violent movement of the glaciers here for 2,500,000 years. For many years, large numbers of fossils of the giant ancient spinal animals, gill lamellas, ammonites and the fossils of sea stars have been found around here, telling us the story of the changes and harshness of the area.
The climate of Xixabangma Feng is quite close to that of Qomolangma Feng. The best timing for mountaineering activites comes each year in April, May, October and November when in one month more than two nice days may be available two-three times and over three nice days one-two times at an inter-val of some five-nineteen days.
On May 2, 1964, for the first time in human history, a Chinese Moun-taineering Team of ten surmounted the summit of Xixabangma Feng. They were Xu Jing, Zhang Junyan, Wang Fuzhou, Chen San, Sodnam Dorje, Cheng Tianliang, Mima Zaxi, Dorje, Yundeng. In May, 1981, in three batches, Bruce and his eight companions from the New Zealand Alpine Club reched Molamenqing Feng, the east peak of Xixabangma Feng which has an altitude of 7705 meters.
In April, 1982, Morimoto Rikugo and ten others from the Mountaineering Team of Japan’s Kyoto University got to Gangpengqing Feng (altitude 7292 meters) which lies in the southwest of Xixabangma Feng.
In the decade of 1980-1990, 107 persons in 19 different teams from 17 countries have reached the mysterious peak in succession.
The route line to the mountain. First, drive 670 kilometers from Lhasa through Gyangze and Xigaze on the Sino-Nepal Highway to Xegar. Secondly, advance 138 kilometers west ward through Tingri County and Menhadun, and go on 50 kilometers west ward and then southward. Last, you are here at the north foot of Xixahangma Feng after a 20-kilometer drive on the simply-built high-way. The mountaineering base camp site, at an altitude of 5114 meters above sea level, can be located in the end moraine on the north side of the Yebokanggle Glacier.